2024年3月7日发(作者：麴丹丹)
Going Green in Australia’s Blue Mountains
蓝山国家公园 Blue Mountains National Park
蓝山国家公园坐落在新南威尔士州境内，距离悉尼97公里，车程1小时30分钟。
蓝山国家公园属于大蓝山地区( The Greater Blue Mountains Area )，该区域拥有7个国家公园，在2000年被列入自然类世界遗产。蓝山国家公园内生长著大面积的原始丛林和亚热带雨林，其中以尤加利树最为知名，尤加利树为澳洲的国树，有500多种之多，是澳洲珍贵的动物无尾熊的唯一的食品。当您步入风景如画的原始森林国家公园时，整个空气中散发著尤加利树的清香，给您一种返朴归真的世外桃源般的感受。
蓝山国家公园坐落在从海拔100公尺到1300公尺之间的高原丘陵上，特殊的地理和气候环境，蕴育了种类繁多的动植物，另外据记载考证，大约16000年前，这里的地质因为火山爆发而变化活跃，后来又经过长年岁月的风雨侵蚀，使我们能够在今天看到各种奇形怪状的岩石和山峰。在这里分布著超过400多种动植物，充分展现了澳洲自然生态进化史的轨迹。在人们的心目中，原始森林国家公园一定是荒无人烟，其实不然，在蓝山国家公园内居住著多达8万居民，分布在7个大小村镇，人类与自然，原始与文明，能够这样长期和谐共处，在世界文化遗产中是不多见的。
在澳大利亚蓝山的环保生活
The Grand Canyon in the Blue Mountains.
By JENNIFER CONLIN
Published: April 6, 2008
LYING under a thick patchwork quilt, breathing in the fresh mountain air, I felt like a true
eco-traveler as I listened reverently to a morning medley of nature streaming through my window: the
chirping of a cockatoo, the scuffle of a passing lizard, the rustling of leaves ... and then, from the room
next door, the shrill, piercing voice of my travel companion shouting, “There’s a huge spider in my duffel
bag! Get me out of here!”
躺在厚厚的拼花被子上，呼吸着山中新鲜的空气，我像一个真正的生态旅游者一样虔诚地聆听着窗外大自然的早晨混合曲：澳洲大鹦鹉的啁啾声，路过的蜥蜴的脚步声，树叶的沙沙声。。。然而，从隔壁房间却传来了我旅游伙伴的尖锐刺耳的咆哮，“我的行李袋里有个大蜘蛛！快给我离开这里！”
Dashing into the living room, I found my friend — call him the ultimate urbanite — standing on the
couch, staring down at what was, in fact, a fairly large spider crawling across the floor of the cabin. I
suspected he was having second thoughts about joining me on this “environmentally friendly” trip — a
first for both of us. Before he left New York, his image of a green vacation consisted of drinking mojitos
after a seaweed wrap by an infinity pool, not fighting crawly things the size of a baseball mitt in the
Australian bush.
我跑到卧室，发现我的朋友--称他彻头彻尾的城市人--正站在沙发上，死瞪着一个在木屋的地板上爬行的相当大的蜘蛛。我想他会对加入我的这个亲近自然的旅游有一个全新的想法--我们的第一次。在他离开纽约之前，他理想的绿色假期是在一个有着缠人的水草无限大的天然游泳池里喝着mojitos鸡尾酒，而不是在澳大利亚的灌木丛里和像棒球手套一般大的爬行动物搏斗
Quite urban myself (I grew up in the Midwest but now live in London), I planned this trip wondering
what it would be like to travel in a more sustainable way than I have grown accustomed to over the years
— grabbing cheap flights to whatever city caught my interest at that moment, never mind the carbon
footprint I was leaving behind.
我自己也是很城市化（我在美国的中西部长大现在住在伦敦），我计划了这次旅游是想知道一个比较环保的方式旅游和我以往几年的随便上一架便宜的飞机去任何一个当时想去的城市，从不考虑我身后留下的足迹。
Yet I also wanted a vacation that would not be too jolting for a couple of green travel novices. So
rather than signing us up for a marine conservation expedition in Antarctica or a Bedouin trekking
journey across the Sahara, I settled on a more “eco-light” experience: hiking in the Greater Blue
Mountains in New South Wales, a World Heritage Site since 2000, said to have unparalleled examples of
nature, including forested landscapes on sandstone plateaus, deep gorges and canyons, secluded rain
forests and ancient trees.
当然我也希望对2个绿色旅游的新手来说这个度假不要太折腾了。为此我们没有去报名登记南极海洋保护区的探险，也没有报名参加由贝都因人做导游的穿越撒哈拉大沙漠的跋涉，而是选择了一种更加生态的旅游之路：去伟大的蓝山国家公园踏青，这个坐落在新南威尔士州境内在2000年辈列入世界遗产的公园据说有着空前无双的自然景色，包括沙石平原上的森林景色，很深的峡谷，隐秘的雨林和古树。
Set into the landscape overlooking one of the Blue Mountains’ seven national parks, the
Jemby-Rinjah is surrounded by signposted trails for hiking (along with raised planked walkways to
protect the flora and fauna from human impact), an eco-lodge with a dining room and circular stone
fireplace, and plenty of visible wildlife, including possums and parrots. What’s more, it is just outside the
village of Blackheath, and not far from the area’s other two towns, Katoomba and Leura, filled with shops,
pubs, boutiques and cafes for occasional breaks from the bush — something I thought we might need.
进入这片景色中回头朝下看蓝山的7个公园之一，Jemby-Rinjah酒店被一条有路标的转公司徒步跋涉用的小道环绕着（沿路设有向上的木板将人和动植物群分开），房间里面有餐厅和圆形的石头壁炉，还有许多野生动物，包括负鼠和鹦鹉等。更要紧的是，它就坐落在布莱克西斯（地名？）村庄的边上，离这不远就是另外2个小镇，Katoomba and Leura，镇上有商店，酒吧，服装店和咖啡厅供给一些丛林中住不惯的人--某些我可能很需要的。
Still, my friend looked anything but happy when we checked in and the first thing the receptionist
handed us was a flashlight so we could “locate” our cabin in the pitch-black wilderness. I must have
looked equally troubled when, in a burst of enthusiasm, my friend signed us up for a guided hike into the
Grand Canyon (forget his arachnophobia; my fear is heights!).
当我们在住处登记好后我朋友看起来仍然不是很开心，而且接待员为我们做的第一件事是给了我们一个手电筒这样我们就能在漆黑的野外找到我们的木屋。当我朋友突然热情地为我们报名徒步进入大峡谷的旅游后我有了相同的烦恼（他忘记了他的蜘蛛恐惧症，我的害怕反而多了起来！）
Our guide, a fit 47-year-old named Tim Tranter, opened Tread Lightly Eco Tours about a decade ago.
Having lived in the Blue Mountains for 45 years, he proved an invaluable guide when, five minutes into
our “signposted” Grand Canyon walk, we had already gotten lost. (Again.) Without him, I am certain we
would have ended up as one of the many “rescue” statistics he kept quoting during our trek.
我们的导游是一个47岁的有点胖的男人叫TIM TRANTER，大概10年前他开了这家生态旅行社。当我们进入峡谷5分钟后我们就迷失了方向，住在蓝山45年的他显示出了了一个有价值的导游。如果没有他的带领，我确信我们的旅行会成为营救人员的目标而告结束。
Over a four-hour trek, much of it climbing, Tim kept up a nonstop narrative about the area’s rich
environmental history, including the fact that a large portion of the forest had burned down entirely a year
and a half ago and yet had already nearly replenished itself. (The miracle of nature at work!) As we
descended 1,000 vertical feet into the canyon, he ushered us through a “door” leading from one biosphere
into another. In one instance, we were standing in dry, shrubby bush; a few minutes later we found
ourselves surrounded by a steamy, wet eucalyptus rain forest.
在4小时的跋涉中大部分就是爬山，TIM一直不断地叙述着有关这个地方的丰富的自然环境的历史，包括一年半前的森林大部分被完全烧毁的事实和它的自我重生（神奇的自然作用）。当我们下到1000英尺的峡谷中时，他引领我们从一个生物层穿到另一生物层。举个例子来说，我们当时正在干燥的灌木丛中，几分钟后我们发现我们已经被热气蒸腾的雨林所包围。
The history of the canyon is a fascinating one, and I was happy to hear it as we walked along
the rocky path. According to Tim, Aborigines lived in these caves as recently as 100 years ago, isolated
from the European settlers who were colonizing the rest of New South Wales. Then, in 1907, Thomas
Rodriguez, Blackheath’s rail station master, began the arduous process of creating walking trails,
complete with the rock steps we were now negotiating on our trek. At one point, as we stopped in a cave
for a coffee break, courtesy of the thermos Tim had brought along, he pointed out the names of two early
bush walkers painted on the walls, faded but still clearly visible nearly a century later.
这个峡谷有着吸引人的历史，当我们沿着石子路走的时候我愉快地听着这个事迹。据蒂姆说在将近100年前澳大利亚土著人就生活在这些洞穴中，和其他统治者新南威尔士的欧洲殖民者隔离开来。然而在1907年，托马斯Blackheath火车站的管理员开始修筑通往这里的路轨，加上我们一路上所攀爬的岩石台阶而完成的。接着，蒂姆带我们来到一处洞穴休息，他把我们的注意力引向墙上的2个早期丛林步行者的名字上，经过一个世纪后虽然有些褪色但仍然清晰明了。
Upon reaching the bottom of the canyon, we lightly hopscotched from rock to rock across a gentle
stream, a sharp contrast to the end of the hike when we would huff and puff our way up a section that Tim
told us was disturbingly called the “Stairway to Hell”— 300 steps that lead to the summit.
到了峡谷底部，我们轻巧地单脚踏着一块块岩石，跳跃着过了小溪
Buoyed by our rugged hike, the next day we ventured into the town of Katoomba, a backpacker’s
paradise filled with cafes, restaurants and shops, to say nothing of the mountain scenery — though sorting
out an eco-friendly way to get there, or anywhere for that matter, from our lodge proved impossible.
While the train from Sydney had dropped us right in Blackheath, once there, we had to take a cab from
the station to our lodge, and to reach Katoomba (a 10-minute ride away) we again had to call a taxi. It was
obvious that public transport was not a priority here, as no one seemed to know when or where there were
buses, and even the locals seemed to wait forever for a bus that might never come.
But it is the natural monument called the Three Sisters — three spires carved from millions of years
of erosion of sandstone cliffs — that is the most awe-inspiring feature of the Blue Mountains. They jut
dramatically into the sky, looking like three queens admiring their realm.
Wanting a closer look at the spires, we headed into the bustling visitor center for some much needed
advice, then headed off for a hike along Prince Henry Cliff Walk, which hugs the side of the mountains
and gives spectacular views of the valley below. For about half an hour, water bottles in hand, we weaved
past cascades and waterfalls before emerging on a busy street leading back into town.
There, just another few minutes’ walk away, was a much-appreciated pub. Sitting outdoors on the
terrace filled with both young and old backpackers, all fresh (or not so fresh) from the mountain trails, we
quickly polished off a couple of beers before stopping in for dinner at the Savoy, a casual restaurant with
modern Oz food. I sampled my first kangaroo — hardly endangered and extremely local — which tasted
a bit like a mix of lamb and venison, tender to the knife, with a hint of game on the tongue.
That night, we returned to the lodge — this time we remembered our flashlights — for a restful sleep
thankfully uninterrupted by any more spiders. (Though my friend was still irritated by the faint glow
emanating from the solar-powered lights in his room.)
On our final day, we woke early to make sure we were ready for the 8: bird-feeding ritual, a
much-touted attraction of the Jemby-Rinjah lodge. Walking out to the designated feeding area, we saw a
small group of people all standing with their arms extended like scarecrows, their palms turned up to the
sky. Waiting. And then waiting some more. Finally, one by one, blue and red crimson rosella birds started
flying in from the bush — like a colorful version of Hitchcock’s movie — and landing on people’s hands.
As I stood there, flinching each time a bird attempted to alight on my palm, a man told me how rare it
is for these birds to approach humans, and then he instructed me on the best way to hold the seed in my
hand so the birds would come close.
Moments later, I giggled as I felt the peck of a beak on my hand for the first time. But I had to laugh
even harder at the sight of my friend. Squatting down, he was surrounded by a whole flock of feeding,
flapping birds, looking a lot like Dr. Dolittle. What’s more, I could swear I heard him talking to them.
2024年3月7日发(作者：麴丹丹)
Going Green in Australia’s Blue Mountains
蓝山国家公园 Blue Mountains National Park
蓝山国家公园坐落在新南威尔士州境内，距离悉尼97公里，车程1小时30分钟。
蓝山国家公园属于大蓝山地区( The Greater Blue Mountains Area )，该区域拥有7个国家公园，在2000年被列入自然类世界遗产。蓝山国家公园内生长著大面积的原始丛林和亚热带雨林，其中以尤加利树最为知名，尤加利树为澳洲的国树，有500多种之多，是澳洲珍贵的动物无尾熊的唯一的食品。当您步入风景如画的原始森林国家公园时，整个空气中散发著尤加利树的清香，给您一种返朴归真的世外桃源般的感受。
蓝山国家公园坐落在从海拔100公尺到1300公尺之间的高原丘陵上，特殊的地理和气候环境，蕴育了种类繁多的动植物，另外据记载考证，大约16000年前，这里的地质因为火山爆发而变化活跃，后来又经过长年岁月的风雨侵蚀，使我们能够在今天看到各种奇形怪状的岩石和山峰。在这里分布著超过400多种动植物，充分展现了澳洲自然生态进化史的轨迹。在人们的心目中，原始森林国家公园一定是荒无人烟，其实不然，在蓝山国家公园内居住著多达8万居民，分布在7个大小村镇，人类与自然，原始与文明，能够这样长期和谐共处，在世界文化遗产中是不多见的。
在澳大利亚蓝山的环保生活
The Grand Canyon in the Blue Mountains.
By JENNIFER CONLIN
Published: April 6, 2008
LYING under a thick patchwork quilt, breathing in the fresh mountain air, I felt like a true
eco-traveler as I listened reverently to a morning medley of nature streaming through my window: the
chirping of a cockatoo, the scuffle of a passing lizard, the rustling of leaves ... and then, from the room
next door, the shrill, piercing voice of my travel companion shouting, “There’s a huge spider in my duffel
bag! Get me out of here!”
躺在厚厚的拼花被子上，呼吸着山中新鲜的空气，我像一个真正的生态旅游者一样虔诚地聆听着窗外大自然的早晨混合曲：澳洲大鹦鹉的啁啾声，路过的蜥蜴的脚步声，树叶的沙沙声。。。然而，从隔壁房间却传来了我旅游伙伴的尖锐刺耳的咆哮，“我的行李袋里有个大蜘蛛！快给我离开这里！”
Dashing into the living room, I found my friend — call him the ultimate urbanite — standing on the
couch, staring down at what was, in fact, a fairly large spider crawling across the floor of the cabin. I
suspected he was having second thoughts about joining me on this “environmentally friendly” trip — a
first for both of us. Before he left New York, his image of a green vacation consisted of drinking mojitos
after a seaweed wrap by an infinity pool, not fighting crawly things the size of a baseball mitt in the
Australian bush.
我跑到卧室，发现我的朋友--称他彻头彻尾的城市人--正站在沙发上，死瞪着一个在木屋的地板上爬行的相当大的蜘蛛。我想他会对加入我的这个亲近自然的旅游有一个全新的想法--我们的第一次。在他离开纽约之前，他理想的绿色假期是在一个有着缠人的水草无限大的天然游泳池里喝着mojitos鸡尾酒，而不是在澳大利亚的灌木丛里和像棒球手套一般大的爬行动物搏斗
Quite urban myself (I grew up in the Midwest but now live in London), I planned this trip wondering
what it would be like to travel in a more sustainable way than I have grown accustomed to over the years
— grabbing cheap flights to whatever city caught my interest at that moment, never mind the carbon
footprint I was leaving behind.
我自己也是很城市化（我在美国的中西部长大现在住在伦敦），我计划了这次旅游是想知道一个比较环保的方式旅游和我以往几年的随便上一架便宜的飞机去任何一个当时想去的城市，从不考虑我身后留下的足迹。
Yet I also wanted a vacation that would not be too jolting for a couple of green travel novices. So
rather than signing us up for a marine conservation expedition in Antarctica or a Bedouin trekking
journey across the Sahara, I settled on a more “eco-light” experience: hiking in the Greater Blue
Mountains in New South Wales, a World Heritage Site since 2000, said to have unparalleled examples of
nature, including forested landscapes on sandstone plateaus, deep gorges and canyons, secluded rain
forests and ancient trees.
当然我也希望对2个绿色旅游的新手来说这个度假不要太折腾了。为此我们没有去报名登记南极海洋保护区的探险，也没有报名参加由贝都因人做导游的穿越撒哈拉大沙漠的跋涉，而是选择了一种更加生态的旅游之路：去伟大的蓝山国家公园踏青，这个坐落在新南威尔士州境内在2000年辈列入世界遗产的公园据说有着空前无双的自然景色，包括沙石平原上的森林景色，很深的峡谷，隐秘的雨林和古树。
Set into the landscape overlooking one of the Blue Mountains’ seven national parks, the
Jemby-Rinjah is surrounded by signposted trails for hiking (along with raised planked walkways to
protect the flora and fauna from human impact), an eco-lodge with a dining room and circular stone
fireplace, and plenty of visible wildlife, including possums and parrots. What’s more, it is just outside the
village of Blackheath, and not far from the area’s other two towns, Katoomba and Leura, filled with shops,
pubs, boutiques and cafes for occasional breaks from the bush — something I thought we might need.
进入这片景色中回头朝下看蓝山的7个公园之一，Jemby-Rinjah酒店被一条有路标的转公司徒步跋涉用的小道环绕着（沿路设有向上的木板将人和动植物群分开），房间里面有餐厅和圆形的石头壁炉，还有许多野生动物，包括负鼠和鹦鹉等。更要紧的是，它就坐落在布莱克西斯（地名？）村庄的边上，离这不远就是另外2个小镇，Katoomba and Leura，镇上有商店，酒吧，服装店和咖啡厅供给一些丛林中住不惯的人--某些我可能很需要的。
Still, my friend looked anything but happy when we checked in and the first thing the receptionist
handed us was a flashlight so we could “locate” our cabin in the pitch-black wilderness. I must have
looked equally troubled when, in a burst of enthusiasm, my friend signed us up for a guided hike into the
Grand Canyon (forget his arachnophobia; my fear is heights!).
当我们在住处登记好后我朋友看起来仍然不是很开心，而且接待员为我们做的第一件事是给了我们一个手电筒这样我们就能在漆黑的野外找到我们的木屋。当我朋友突然热情地为我们报名徒步进入大峡谷的旅游后我有了相同的烦恼（他忘记了他的蜘蛛恐惧症，我的害怕反而多了起来！）
Our guide, a fit 47-year-old named Tim Tranter, opened Tread Lightly Eco Tours about a decade ago.
Having lived in the Blue Mountains for 45 years, he proved an invaluable guide when, five minutes into
our “signposted” Grand Canyon walk, we had already gotten lost. (Again.) Without him, I am certain we
would have ended up as one of the many “rescue” statistics he kept quoting during our trek.
我们的导游是一个47岁的有点胖的男人叫TIM TRANTER，大概10年前他开了这家生态旅行社。当我们进入峡谷5分钟后我们就迷失了方向，住在蓝山45年的他显示出了了一个有价值的导游。如果没有他的带领，我确信我们的旅行会成为营救人员的目标而告结束。
Over a four-hour trek, much of it climbing, Tim kept up a nonstop narrative about the area’s rich
environmental history, including the fact that a large portion of the forest had burned down entirely a year
and a half ago and yet had already nearly replenished itself. (The miracle of nature at work!) As we
descended 1,000 vertical feet into the canyon, he ushered us through a “door” leading from one biosphere
into another. In one instance, we were standing in dry, shrubby bush; a few minutes later we found
ourselves surrounded by a steamy, wet eucalyptus rain forest.
在4小时的跋涉中大部分就是爬山，TIM一直不断地叙述着有关这个地方的丰富的自然环境的历史，包括一年半前的森林大部分被完全烧毁的事实和它的自我重生（神奇的自然作用）。当我们下到1000英尺的峡谷中时，他引领我们从一个生物层穿到另一生物层。举个例子来说，我们当时正在干燥的灌木丛中，几分钟后我们发现我们已经被热气蒸腾的雨林所包围。
The history of the canyon is a fascinating one, and I was happy to hear it as we walked along
the rocky path. According to Tim, Aborigines lived in these caves as recently as 100 years ago, isolated
from the European settlers who were colonizing the rest of New South Wales. Then, in 1907, Thomas
Rodriguez, Blackheath’s rail station master, began the arduous process of creating walking trails,
complete with the rock steps we were now negotiating on our trek. At one point, as we stopped in a cave
for a coffee break, courtesy of the thermos Tim had brought along, he pointed out the names of two early
bush walkers painted on the walls, faded but still clearly visible nearly a century later.
这个峡谷有着吸引人的历史，当我们沿着石子路走的时候我愉快地听着这个事迹。据蒂姆说在将近100年前澳大利亚土著人就生活在这些洞穴中，和其他统治者新南威尔士的欧洲殖民者隔离开来。然而在1907年，托马斯Blackheath火车站的管理员开始修筑通往这里的路轨，加上我们一路上所攀爬的岩石台阶而完成的。接着，蒂姆带我们来到一处洞穴休息，他把我们的注意力引向墙上的2个早期丛林步行者的名字上，经过一个世纪后虽然有些褪色但仍然清晰明了。
Upon reaching the bottom of the canyon, we lightly hopscotched from rock to rock across a gentle
stream, a sharp contrast to the end of the hike when we would huff and puff our way up a section that Tim
told us was disturbingly called the “Stairway to Hell”— 300 steps that lead to the summit.
到了峡谷底部，我们轻巧地单脚踏着一块块岩石，跳跃着过了小溪
Buoyed by our rugged hike, the next day we ventured into the town of Katoomba, a backpacker’s
paradise filled with cafes, restaurants and shops, to say nothing of the mountain scenery — though sorting
out an eco-friendly way to get there, or anywhere for that matter, from our lodge proved impossible.
While the train from Sydney had dropped us right in Blackheath, once there, we had to take a cab from
the station to our lodge, and to reach Katoomba (a 10-minute ride away) we again had to call a taxi. It was
obvious that public transport was not a priority here, as no one seemed to know when or where there were
buses, and even the locals seemed to wait forever for a bus that might never come.
But it is the natural monument called the Three Sisters — three spires carved from millions of years
of erosion of sandstone cliffs — that is the most awe-inspiring feature of the Blue Mountains. They jut
dramatically into the sky, looking like three queens admiring their realm.
Wanting a closer look at the spires, we headed into the bustling visitor center for some much needed
advice, then headed off for a hike along Prince Henry Cliff Walk, which hugs the side of the mountains
and gives spectacular views of the valley below. For about half an hour, water bottles in hand, we weaved
past cascades and waterfalls before emerging on a busy street leading back into town.
There, just another few minutes’ walk away, was a much-appreciated pub. Sitting outdoors on the
terrace filled with both young and old backpackers, all fresh (or not so fresh) from the mountain trails, we
quickly polished off a couple of beers before stopping in for dinner at the Savoy, a casual restaurant with
modern Oz food. I sampled my first kangaroo — hardly endangered and extremely local — which tasted
a bit like a mix of lamb and venison, tender to the knife, with a hint of game on the tongue.
That night, we returned to the lodge — this time we remembered our flashlights — for a restful sleep
thankfully uninterrupted by any more spiders. (Though my friend was still irritated by the faint glow
emanating from the solar-powered lights in his room.)
On our final day, we woke early to make sure we were ready for the 8: bird-feeding ritual, a
much-touted attraction of the Jemby-Rinjah lodge. Walking out to the designated feeding area, we saw a
small group of people all standing with their arms extended like scarecrows, their palms turned up to the
sky. Waiting. And then waiting some more. Finally, one by one, blue and red crimson rosella birds started
flying in from the bush — like a colorful version of Hitchcock’s movie — and landing on people’s hands.
As I stood there, flinching each time a bird attempted to alight on my palm, a man told me how rare it
is for these birds to approach humans, and then he instructed me on the best way to hold the seed in my
hand so the birds would come close.
Moments later, I giggled as I felt the peck of a beak on my hand for the first time. But I had to laugh
even harder at the sight of my friend. Squatting down, he was surrounded by a whole flock of feeding,
flapping birds, looking a lot like Dr. Dolittle. What’s more, I could swear I heard him talking to them.