2024年3月11日发(作者：甘秀隽)
Getting Started: Guide to Watchmaking Tools
Almost every week or so folks who want to get started on watchmaking ask an eternal
question: What tools should I buy?
Unfortunately, there is no easy answer. Let's try a new approach this time. Instead of just
listing the tools, let's focus on a job. Clearly, if your objective is to take apart and put back
together a movement you will need one set of tools. But if you are taking apart a watch, and
properly servicing the movement (disassembly, inspection, cleaning, assembly, lubrication,
timing, casing), you will need a larger set of tools.
Let's start with a bare minimum.
STAGE I: TAKING APART BARE MOVEMENT
I am opposed to wasting money on subpar tools. Which doesn't necessarily mean buying
top-of-the-line, top-dollar tools. It simply means getting quality tools that would not only
last, but will also prevent "accidents" and help you learn proper skills. If you are planning to
become a professional, only get the best tools. If you only plan to work on vintage
movements as a hobbyist, there are money saving opportunities for less critical tools (mostly
listed in STAGE II).
To take apart a movement that is not in a case and has no dial/hands, you will need to
secure the movement in movement holder. To be able to see what is going on, you need an
eye loupe. To disassemble the watch you will need precision screwdrivers and tweezers. A
parts tray helps to store movement parts. This is basically all you need to take a movement
1
apart, and put it back together. Here is the shopping list with typical prices (I also included
part numbers from O. Frei for easy reference). Keep in mind that this kit does not contain
tools for replacing mainspring in the barrel. You can still open the barrel, but don't take out
the mainspring. Cannon pinion can be removed by cheap heavy-duty tweezers, like FB-2024
$3.99 (just don't use it for anything else). Alternatively, you can use a pin vise (method,
recommended by Henry Fried).
1. Movement Holder, Bergeon 4040 Classic Large FB-807 $21.50
(Good alternative: FB-807-P $22.60) (*)
2. Covered Parts and Movement Tray FB-117 $5.95
3. Bausch & Lomb 4X Loupe FB-603 $11.50
4. Bergeon 5461 Headband for In-the-Eye Loupes $5.20
5. Style #2, Original Dumoxel (Anti-Mag Stainless) Dumont Tweezers FB-1403 $22.20 (**)
6. AF Switzerland Screw Driver Set, 9 assorted sizes, AF18980, $72.60 (***)
(Alternatives: buy individual screwdrivers, sizes 0.60, 0.80, 1.00, 1.20, 1.40)
7. (Optional) Brass OO style tweezers, Low Cost Made in India (for removing cannon
pinions) FB-2024 $3.99 or a Pin Vise ~$20 at O. Frei for Bergeon, or ~$5 from eBay.
(*) I personally own the plastic one. I like it better because it is well made and will not
2
2024年3月11日发(作者：甘秀隽)
Getting Started: Guide to Watchmaking Tools
Almost every week or so folks who want to get started on watchmaking ask an eternal
question: What tools should I buy?
Unfortunately, there is no easy answer. Let's try a new approach this time. Instead of just
listing the tools, let's focus on a job. Clearly, if your objective is to take apart and put back
together a movement you will need one set of tools. But if you are taking apart a watch, and
properly servicing the movement (disassembly, inspection, cleaning, assembly, lubrication,
timing, casing), you will need a larger set of tools.
Let's start with a bare minimum.
STAGE I: TAKING APART BARE MOVEMENT
I am opposed to wasting money on subpar tools. Which doesn't necessarily mean buying
top-of-the-line, top-dollar tools. It simply means getting quality tools that would not only
last, but will also prevent "accidents" and help you learn proper skills. If you are planning to
become a professional, only get the best tools. If you only plan to work on vintage
movements as a hobbyist, there are money saving opportunities for less critical tools (mostly
listed in STAGE II).
To take apart a movement that is not in a case and has no dial/hands, you will need to
secure the movement in movement holder. To be able to see what is going on, you need an
eye loupe. To disassemble the watch you will need precision screwdrivers and tweezers. A
parts tray helps to store movement parts. This is basically all you need to take a movement
1
apart, and put it back together. Here is the shopping list with typical prices (I also included
part numbers from O. Frei for easy reference). Keep in mind that this kit does not contain
tools for replacing mainspring in the barrel. You can still open the barrel, but don't take out
the mainspring. Cannon pinion can be removed by cheap heavy-duty tweezers, like FB-2024
$3.99 (just don't use it for anything else). Alternatively, you can use a pin vise (method,
recommended by Henry Fried).
1. Movement Holder, Bergeon 4040 Classic Large FB-807 $21.50
(Good alternative: FB-807-P $22.60) (*)
2. Covered Parts and Movement Tray FB-117 $5.95
3. Bausch & Lomb 4X Loupe FB-603 $11.50
4. Bergeon 5461 Headband for In-the-Eye Loupes $5.20
5. Style #2, Original Dumoxel (Anti-Mag Stainless) Dumont Tweezers FB-1403 $22.20 (**)
6. AF Switzerland Screw Driver Set, 9 assorted sizes, AF18980, $72.60 (***)
(Alternatives: buy individual screwdrivers, sizes 0.60, 0.80, 1.00, 1.20, 1.40)
7. (Optional) Brass OO style tweezers, Low Cost Made in India (for removing cannon
pinions) FB-2024 $3.99 or a Pin Vise ~$20 at O. Frei for Bergeon, or ~$5 from eBay.
(*) I personally own the plastic one. I like it better because it is well made and will not
2