2024年9月14日发(作者：毋倩丽)
Apple Thunderbolt Display Teardown
Apple Thunderbolt Display Teardown
Written By: David Hodson
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 1 of 19
INTRODUCTION
Crafted from the fire pits of Hephaestus himself, and thrust down to Earth by the mighty Zeus, the
Apple Thunderbolt Display arrived at the doorstep of iFixit's headquarters.
Follow iFixit on twitter for the latest updates.
Cool bonus: Here's a wallpaper of one of Thunderbolt Display's chips, made in the Thunderbolt
Display's native 2560 x 1440 resolution.
TOOLS:
Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair) (1)
Spudger (1)
T10 Torx Screwdriver (1)
T6 Torx Screwdriver (1)
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 2 of 19
Step 1 — Apple Thunderbolt Display Teardown
By the hammer of Thor! With the
new Thunderbolt Display in our
hands, the future is looking bright.
27" TFT Active-Matrix LCD
2560 by 1440 Pixel Resolution
Built-in Thunderbolt and MagSafe
Cables
FaceTime HD Camera with
Microphone
49 Watt 2.1 Speaker System
16:9 Widescreen Aspect Ratio
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 3 of 19
Step 2
The Thunderbolt Display contains a sweet lineup of USB, HDMI, VGA, and DisplayPort ports! Oh
wait—wrong thousand-dollar display.
The luscious backside of the Thunderbolt Display contains only a small line of specified ports:
Three powered USB 2.0 ports
FireWire 800 port
Thunderbolt port
Gigabit Ethernet port.
The Thunderbolt Display also comes with a built-in Thunderbolt cable attached to a Universal
MagSafe cable.
It seems to be a convenient setup for connecting to your laptop's Thunderbolt port while charging.
If you are sporting a Mid 2011 MacBook Air and your MagSafe port is opposite your Thunderbolt,
you'll be glad to know the cable is long enough to reach.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 4 of 19
Step 3
Much like the iMac we tore apart earlier this year (and the iMacs before it), the Thunderbolt
Display's front glass panel comes off with the help of some heavy duty suction cups.
While we're handling this gigantic sheet of silica, we thought we'd share a fun glass fact with you:
the Plymouth Barracuda featured—at its time—the largest piece of automotive glass produced to
date.
Step 4
It's time to take a look under the hood. With the help of our 54-piece bit driver kit, we liberate a few
screws (12 to be exact, but who's counting?) from their asylum.
A few connectors and a ground screw are all that prevent the freedom of the LCD.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 5 of 19
Step 5
The 27-inch (diagonal) TFT active-
matrix LCD has a resolution of 2560
by 1440 pixels, the standard for
displays of this size and price. Its 12
ms response time and 16.7 million
colors, however, fall short of the 6
ms response time and 1.07 billion
colors of Dell's comparable display.
We might be splitting hairs here, but
those hairs would be viewed with
1,053,300,000 fewer colors on
Apple's display. Just saying.
Be it 16.7 million or 1.07 billion
colors, we say, "Let's see what
you've got, Crayola!"
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 6 of 19
Step 6
The back of the LCD display has only a few cables, none too exciting:
DisplayPort
LED backlight
LED backlight sync
Ground loop.
The LG display reads model number LM270WQ1. Is it possible that we may have seen this model
number before?
Yes, it appears to be the same display found in the iMac Intel 27" from October of 2009, as well as
the same basic LG display found in Dell's competing 27" monitor, though the Apple version uses
LED backlights as opposed to Dell's traditional CCFL.
Dell's version is also matte, something that lots of Mac users have been harping for once the old
30" Cinema Display was phased out.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 7 of 19
Step 7
Great Odin's Raven! With that old,
crappy LCD removed (who needs it
anyway), we get a full frontal view of
the Thunderbolt Display's inner
layout.
Where to start . . . the fan you say?
Sounds good to us.
Step 8
The fan is easily removed simply by detaching a couple of connectors and unfastening a few
screws.
Apple has, as usual, chosen to go with a large, brushless fan to keep the colossal Thunderbolt
Display nice and cool.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 8 of 19
Step 9
In our pursuit of self-preservation, we begin by disconnecting the power supply connector from its
socket on the logic board to prevent any electrifying experiences.
A few more T10 Torx screws bite the dust at the hand of our bit driver kit, and the logic board is
detached.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 9 of 19
Step 10
Stop—it's connector time! We remove a plethora (that's right, plethora, we're using our five dollar
words) of connectors from the logic board, leaving only the brains behind the Thunderbolt port
between us and the display's control center.
A few T6 Torx screws are knocked out to remove the connector cover, and the Thunderbolt cable
is disconnected.
Interestingly enough, the Thunderbolt cable that routes into the display also plugs into a standard
Thunderbolt socket on the logic board. Apple could have just soldered the cable wires to the
board, but instead chose to implement a cover that prevents the cable from being detached from
the logic board's Thunderbolt socket.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 10 of 19
Step 11
St. Damien's beard! The front of the logic board includes these stellar packages:
Pericom PI7C9X440SL PCIe-to-USB 2.0 host controller
L129NB11 EFL, which looks to be the Thunderbolt port controller (as viewed in the second
picture)
Analog Devices ADAV4601 audio processor
NXP LPC2144 USB 2.0 microcontroller
Delta LFE9249 10/100/1000 Base-T LAN filter
SMSC USB2517-JZX USB 2.0 hub controller
LPC 1114F
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 11 of 19
Step 12
Sweet grandmother's spatula! The
back of the board also contains
oodles of chips:
Maxim MAX9736B Mono/Stereo
High-Power Class D Amplifier
Texas Instruments LC573A D-
type Latch
Silego SLG8SP568VCK505
Clock Generator
LSI L-FW643E-2 Open Host
Controller Interface
Broadcom BCM57761 Gigabit
ethernet controller
Texas Instruments NH245 Dual
Supply Translator
Supertex HV9982 3-channel
switch-mode LED driver IC
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 12 of 19
Step 13
With the logic board removed, we move on to the power supply board.
A few screws and connectors are all that are stopping us from removing the board.
We make quick work of them and the Flextronics power supply board comes free.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 13 of 19
Step 14
Hot pot of coffee! Let's see what the Thunderbolt Display's power supply board can do for us.
How about 250 watts of maximum continuous power -- is that enough for you?
Fun science fact, the "thunderbolts" (AKA lightning) in nature can put out an average of
1,000,000,000,000 watts, that's 4 billion times the output of the Thunderbolt Display's power
supply! But lets lightning bolts are much, much larger than this power supply and last
only fractions of a second.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 14 of 19
Step 15
We see some fairly large speaker enclosures (well, for a monitor) near the side edges of the
Thunderbolt Display and eagerly remove the screws holding them in place.
Wait! What have we here? Is that a built-in 1-inch subwoofer, as well?
The Thunderbolt Display comes with a 49 watt 2.1-speaker sound system, including a miniature
subwoofer.
Basically, your display will sound something like this. Okay, so maybe not, but you will get some
pretty decent sound out of this bad boy.
Step 16
A couple screws and a single connector keep the HD FaceTime camera secured to the case.
Yoink! Out comes the camera and its ability to record video up to 720p, as well as its ability to
support widescreen 16 x 9 aspect ratios.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 15 of 19
Step 17
The front side of the camera board:
cFeon LV010-45RNIP 11113A 1110ADA
The rear side of the camera board:
Vimicro VC0338BSMCB Camera Controller
Texas Instruments TPS65708 Power Management Unit
0BNHM7
408F N109
T120 Bd01
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 16 of 19
Step 18
Uncle Jonathan's corn cob pipe! Just a few Torx 10 screws stand between us and the AC power
adapter.
The AC-Inlet in all its infinite glory.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 17 of 19
Step 19
Hey Mic, you seem like you're in a tight spot. Here, let me help you out.
Good ol' spudger would never let a friend like Mic down.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 18 of 19
Step 20
Thunderbolt Display Repairability Score: 8 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair)
Only T6 and T10 torx screws hold it together, meaning minimal tooling is required to service.
Minimal use of adhesives means reassembly will be easier and cleaner.
Front glass panel and LCD are easy to remove and major components are exposed upon
removal.
You have to use suction cups to remove the front glass, which could end poorly if not done
properly.
While disassembly was very straightforward, there are a lot of parts, cables and connectors,
making full reassembly not for the faint of heart.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 19 of 19
2024年9月14日发(作者：毋倩丽)
Apple Thunderbolt Display Teardown
Apple Thunderbolt Display Teardown
Written By: David Hodson
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 1 of 19
INTRODUCTION
Crafted from the fire pits of Hephaestus himself, and thrust down to Earth by the mighty Zeus, the
Apple Thunderbolt Display arrived at the doorstep of iFixit's headquarters.
Follow iFixit on twitter for the latest updates.
Cool bonus: Here's a wallpaper of one of Thunderbolt Display's chips, made in the Thunderbolt
Display's native 2560 x 1440 resolution.
TOOLS:
Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair) (1)
Spudger (1)
T10 Torx Screwdriver (1)
T6 Torx Screwdriver (1)
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 2 of 19
Step 1 — Apple Thunderbolt Display Teardown
By the hammer of Thor! With the
new Thunderbolt Display in our
hands, the future is looking bright.
27" TFT Active-Matrix LCD
2560 by 1440 Pixel Resolution
Built-in Thunderbolt and MagSafe
Cables
FaceTime HD Camera with
Microphone
49 Watt 2.1 Speaker System
16:9 Widescreen Aspect Ratio
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 3 of 19
Step 2
The Thunderbolt Display contains a sweet lineup of USB, HDMI, VGA, and DisplayPort ports! Oh
wait—wrong thousand-dollar display.
The luscious backside of the Thunderbolt Display contains only a small line of specified ports:
Three powered USB 2.0 ports
FireWire 800 port
Thunderbolt port
Gigabit Ethernet port.
The Thunderbolt Display also comes with a built-in Thunderbolt cable attached to a Universal
MagSafe cable.
It seems to be a convenient setup for connecting to your laptop's Thunderbolt port while charging.
If you are sporting a Mid 2011 MacBook Air and your MagSafe port is opposite your Thunderbolt,
you'll be glad to know the cable is long enough to reach.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 4 of 19
Step 3
Much like the iMac we tore apart earlier this year (and the iMacs before it), the Thunderbolt
Display's front glass panel comes off with the help of some heavy duty suction cups.
While we're handling this gigantic sheet of silica, we thought we'd share a fun glass fact with you:
the Plymouth Barracuda featured—at its time—the largest piece of automotive glass produced to
date.
Step 4
It's time to take a look under the hood. With the help of our 54-piece bit driver kit, we liberate a few
screws (12 to be exact, but who's counting?) from their asylum.
A few connectors and a ground screw are all that prevent the freedom of the LCD.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 5 of 19
Step 5
The 27-inch (diagonal) TFT active-
matrix LCD has a resolution of 2560
by 1440 pixels, the standard for
displays of this size and price. Its 12
ms response time and 16.7 million
colors, however, fall short of the 6
ms response time and 1.07 billion
colors of Dell's comparable display.
We might be splitting hairs here, but
those hairs would be viewed with
1,053,300,000 fewer colors on
Apple's display. Just saying.
Be it 16.7 million or 1.07 billion
colors, we say, "Let's see what
you've got, Crayola!"
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 6 of 19
Step 6
The back of the LCD display has only a few cables, none too exciting:
DisplayPort
LED backlight
LED backlight sync
Ground loop.
The LG display reads model number LM270WQ1. Is it possible that we may have seen this model
number before?
Yes, it appears to be the same display found in the iMac Intel 27" from October of 2009, as well as
the same basic LG display found in Dell's competing 27" monitor, though the Apple version uses
LED backlights as opposed to Dell's traditional CCFL.
Dell's version is also matte, something that lots of Mac users have been harping for once the old
30" Cinema Display was phased out.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 7 of 19
Step 7
Great Odin's Raven! With that old,
crappy LCD removed (who needs it
anyway), we get a full frontal view of
the Thunderbolt Display's inner
layout.
Where to start . . . the fan you say?
Sounds good to us.
Step 8
The fan is easily removed simply by detaching a couple of connectors and unfastening a few
screws.
Apple has, as usual, chosen to go with a large, brushless fan to keep the colossal Thunderbolt
Display nice and cool.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 8 of 19
Step 9
In our pursuit of self-preservation, we begin by disconnecting the power supply connector from its
socket on the logic board to prevent any electrifying experiences.
A few more T10 Torx screws bite the dust at the hand of our bit driver kit, and the logic board is
detached.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 9 of 19
Step 10
Stop—it's connector time! We remove a plethora (that's right, plethora, we're using our five dollar
words) of connectors from the logic board, leaving only the brains behind the Thunderbolt port
between us and the display's control center.
A few T6 Torx screws are knocked out to remove the connector cover, and the Thunderbolt cable
is disconnected.
Interestingly enough, the Thunderbolt cable that routes into the display also plugs into a standard
Thunderbolt socket on the logic board. Apple could have just soldered the cable wires to the
board, but instead chose to implement a cover that prevents the cable from being detached from
the logic board's Thunderbolt socket.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 10 of 19
Step 11
St. Damien's beard! The front of the logic board includes these stellar packages:
Pericom PI7C9X440SL PCIe-to-USB 2.0 host controller
L129NB11 EFL, which looks to be the Thunderbolt port controller (as viewed in the second
picture)
Analog Devices ADAV4601 audio processor
NXP LPC2144 USB 2.0 microcontroller
Delta LFE9249 10/100/1000 Base-T LAN filter
SMSC USB2517-JZX USB 2.0 hub controller
LPC 1114F
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 11 of 19
Step 12
Sweet grandmother's spatula! The
back of the board also contains
oodles of chips:
Maxim MAX9736B Mono/Stereo
High-Power Class D Amplifier
Texas Instruments LC573A D-
type Latch
Silego SLG8SP568VCK505
Clock Generator
LSI L-FW643E-2 Open Host
Controller Interface
Broadcom BCM57761 Gigabit
ethernet controller
Texas Instruments NH245 Dual
Supply Translator
Supertex HV9982 3-channel
switch-mode LED driver IC
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 12 of 19
Step 13
With the logic board removed, we move on to the power supply board.
A few screws and connectors are all that are stopping us from removing the board.
We make quick work of them and the Flextronics power supply board comes free.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 13 of 19
Step 14
Hot pot of coffee! Let's see what the Thunderbolt Display's power supply board can do for us.
How about 250 watts of maximum continuous power -- is that enough for you?
Fun science fact, the "thunderbolts" (AKA lightning) in nature can put out an average of
1,000,000,000,000 watts, that's 4 billion times the output of the Thunderbolt Display's power
supply! But lets lightning bolts are much, much larger than this power supply and last
only fractions of a second.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 14 of 19
Step 15
We see some fairly large speaker enclosures (well, for a monitor) near the side edges of the
Thunderbolt Display and eagerly remove the screws holding them in place.
Wait! What have we here? Is that a built-in 1-inch subwoofer, as well?
The Thunderbolt Display comes with a 49 watt 2.1-speaker sound system, including a miniature
subwoofer.
Basically, your display will sound something like this. Okay, so maybe not, but you will get some
pretty decent sound out of this bad boy.
Step 16
A couple screws and a single connector keep the HD FaceTime camera secured to the case.
Yoink! Out comes the camera and its ability to record video up to 720p, as well as its ability to
support widescreen 16 x 9 aspect ratios.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 15 of 19
Step 17
The front side of the camera board:
cFeon LV010-45RNIP 11113A 1110ADA
The rear side of the camera board:
Vimicro VC0338BSMCB Camera Controller
Texas Instruments TPS65708 Power Management Unit
0BNHM7
408F N109
T120 Bd01
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 16 of 19
Step 18
Uncle Jonathan's corn cob pipe! Just a few Torx 10 screws stand between us and the AC power
adapter.
The AC-Inlet in all its infinite glory.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 17 of 19
Step 19
Hey Mic, you seem like you're in a tight spot. Here, let me help you out.
Good ol' spudger would never let a friend like Mic down.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 18 of 19
Step 20
Thunderbolt Display Repairability Score: 8 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair)
Only T6 and T10 torx screws hold it together, meaning minimal tooling is required to service.
Minimal use of adhesives means reassembly will be easier and cleaner.
Front glass panel and LCD are easy to remove and major components are exposed upon
removal.
You have to use suction cups to remove the front glass, which could end poorly if not done
properly.
While disassembly was very straightforward, there are a lot of parts, cables and connectors,
making full reassembly not for the faint of heart.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
This document was generated on 2020-11-17 05:04:21 PM (MST).
© iFixit — CC e 19 of 19